Dutch Carnaval
Maastricht, Nederland
Colorful costumes, brass bands, and dancing in packed streets with strangers before Ash Wednesday. One might assume by these descriptions that we are in Brazil during Carnival or New Orleans for Mardi Gras. We are in neither of those places. We are in the Netherlands, the global stereotype of tulips, windmills, cheese, and Amsterdam. Welcome to Carnaval, Dutch style.
Packed Streets of Maastricht
Though Carnaval (or versions of it) is a custom that predates Christianity, it is closely associated with the Catholic southern and eastern parts of the Netherlands. Some time ago, this tradition was assimilated by the Catholic Church, taking elements of pagan spring festivals to celebrate the three days preceding Ash Wednesday and Lent. Upon moving to the Netherlands, I learned that parts of the Netherlands celebrate Carnival (Carnaval in NL) with costumes, grandeur, and color. So, when the time came, I took a two-and-a-half-hour train ride from Noord-Holland to Limberg to experience it. Here are two things I saw and learned about Carnaval in Maastricht, a beautiful city in the southernmost part of the Netherlands. Please understand that this was my experience, and it may differ from what you have heard or seen in the Netherlands.
Zate Hermeniekes
Pekske
Pekske is when the people of Maastricht come out well-dressed in the finest and most unique costumes imaginable. There are many stories to where this tradition comes from. The first story I enjoyed was that this practice came from the lower class mocking the upper class, which put into perspective the many costumes that I saw as they were extravagant with many hints of humor. The second story I heard was the idea of a role reversal where people could, for the celebrations, transcend into something that they were not. I often saw this idea at Carnaval with tattooed men dressed as the pope, females as males, and strong men like frail characters. Costumes also showed the Maastricht Carnaval red, yellow, and green colors. Whatever the origins of Pakske were, the reality of Carnaval showed thousands of people celebrating their community uniquely and beautifully.
Pekske
Zate Hermeniekes
The Zate Hermeniekes, or "tipsy brass bands," played music throughout the day. Whatever crammed street you were on or in the city center, you could see and hear excellent brass bands playing music to the sight of costumed people walking. Many times, floats and huge displays would accompany the bands. What surprised me the most was seeing Kilted Piper bands, which made my head wondering what the connection to Scottish pipe bands was (maybe I will find out soon).
City Marching Band
Maastricht is a beautiful city with wonderful traditions. I recommend anybody visit Maastricht during Carnaval. Or, celebrate these fun practices in another Dutch city. Til next time, Carnaval. Tot Ziens. And to everyone else, explore responsibly.
By: Rainier Lee
