Semana Santa in Honduras
Celebrating Holy Week in Honduras
Comayagua, Honduras
Colorful handcrafted carpets made of sand, seeds, and sawdust (Alformbras). Religious parades of painted saints on platforms (pasos) with the backdrop of picturesque cathedrals. You might assume these sights come from Guatemala or Spain, which can be true. However, there are other places to find visually stunning cultural practices surrounding Semana Santa. For me, it is Honduras.
Semana Santa's English translation is Holy Week. The holiday is celebrated across many Catholic countries commemorating Easter customs. In Honduras, people take off work to enjoy leisure on the beach, in the mountains, or in picturesque towns to appreciate religious traditions. In my first Semana Santa in Honduras, I decided to drive to Comayagua to see and partake in the beautiful Catholic traditions.
Comayagua has always been a destination that I wanted to visit. It is a beautiful colonial town with the oldest clock in the Americas, dating back to 1586. As a history nerd, I wanted to see this old mechanical clock and check it off my bucket list of things to do while living in Honduras. Comayagua is also a religious center in Honduras. Having seen various Buddhist temples and traditions in Korea (where I lived before moving to Honduras), I was ready to dive into the visual beauty of Catholicism in Central America. My trip started where I worked and lived for a year, San Pedro Sula. I rented a car and enjoyed the incredible 3-hour drive on CA-5, a modern smooth road that contrasts the bumpy paths in many parts of the country. The route should only take 2 1/2 hours, but I stopped a few times. First, at Lago de Yajoa for fresh cut mango and then near Santa Cruz to buy honey from highway vendors. If you drive this path, have some cash on you because the local communities on the way will sell fresh seasonal fruit and snacks. Also, a few toll booths charge 22 Lempiras ($1).
I was shocked after I passed Lago de Yajoa to find the landscape completely changed. All of a sudden, the mountains became rougher. Cortes' lush rolling hills transformed into dry mountain ranges that reminded me of Southern California, where I was born. I should not have been shocked, as it is the dry season in Honduras. When going west, things get drier, windier, and less hot. Upon arriving at Comayagua, I was taken by its beautiful town center, with The Church of Immaculate Conception grabbing my attention. The cathedral also holds the oldest clock in the Americas. I arrived Thursday just in time to see artists preparing the Sandust Rugs and Stations called Alformbras. The Alfombras take all night to complete and, as tradition goes, are trampled on the following morning, sometimes moments after completion.
A walk around Comayagua's plaza brought beautiful sights, which included music, street food, and artists creating Alformbras. Passing along the crowded streets were a lot of families on holiday and parades of chanting congregants on the way to Mass. It was a special Semana Santa because it was the 60th anniversary of Alfombras in Comayagua, though the tradition of these carpets dates back to pre-Colonial times. After enjoying the views and eating great pupusas, I visited my hotel. I stayed about a mile from the city center and wondered about the artists working on the Alformbras. So, I walked up the stairs that led to a roof with a wire hanger holding a knobless door opened with the words "cierra la puerta" written. My curiosity opened the door to find towels drying and a perfect spot to send my drone to the plaza.
At night I saw some fantastic views on my drone. The narrow streets were illuminated with light as hundreds of people were creating the Alfombras. The outlines of the colors were shocking, each telling a story with Catholic symbolism, Honduran culture, or Comayagua history. My night ended, and I set my alarm to 6 am to see if the carpets were still being made. They were. At 6:30 am, I saw from the sky that the artists were still working. I felt nervous knowing that hundreds of people would be ceremonially trampling these beautiful tapestries in the following hours.
After a typical Honduran breakfast, I saw the completed Alfombras in person. Already half of the carpets were trampled on from a morning procession, but I was fortunate enough to see the following one. What transpired was a colorful display of men in robes holding Pasos, traditional displays typically depicting the Virgin Mary or the Passion of Christ. Groups of around 12 men had the first Pasos, followed by about 100 observers on their way to Mass. The observers chanted songs following the Pasos into The Church of Immaculate Conception.
Walking around and taking in the many beautiful Alfombras, I heard a live band playing ominous music. To my amazement, it was a giant Paso with approximately 60 men in white robes, hooded in maroon. These men were members of hermandades (brotherhoods) dedicated to honoring Christ's depiction on the Paseo. On top of the Paso were colorful sculptures of Armegedan from the Book of Revelations. In the middle was Jesus holding a cross on the way to be crucified. Behind this phenomenon was a live band playing music. Then, slowly swaying, they marched straight to the Alfombras, stomping as much as possible on the beautiful carpets. Then, in a flash, all of the Alfombras were gone.
Comayagua is a beautiful town that shows Honduras' lovely culture, people, and visuals. My first Semana Santa in Honduras was memorable, to say the least. I encourage anyone to visit during this time of the year. Feliz Semana Santa, Honduras! And to everyone else, explore responsibly.
By: Rainier Lee
Dutch Carnaval
Saluting Carnaval the Dutch way
Maastricht, Nederland
Colorful costumes, brass bands, and dancing in packed streets with strangers before Ash Wednesday. One might assume by these descriptions that we are in Brazil during Carnival or New Orleans for Mardi Gras. We are in neither of those places. We are in the Netherlands, the global stereotype of tulips, windmills, cheese, and Amsterdam. Welcome to Carnaval, Dutch style.
Packed Streets of Maastricht
Though Carnaval (or versions of it) is a custom that predates Christianity, it is closely associated with the Catholic southern and eastern parts of the Netherlands. Some time ago, this tradition was assimilated by the Catholic Church, taking elements of pagan spring festivals to celebrate the three days preceding Ash Wednesday and Lent. Upon moving to the Netherlands, I learned that parts of the Netherlands celebrate Carnival (Carnaval in NL) with costumes, grandeur, and color. So, when the time came, I took a two-and-a-half-hour train ride from Noord-Holland to Limberg to experience it. Here are two things I saw and learned about Carnaval in Maastricht, a beautiful city in the southernmost part of the Netherlands. Please understand that this was my experience, and it may differ from what you have heard or seen in the Netherlands.
Zate Hermeniekes
Pekske
Pekske is when the people of Maastricht come out well-dressed in the finest and most unique costumes imaginable. There are many stories to where this tradition comes from. The first story I enjoyed was that this practice came from the lower class mocking the upper class, which put into perspective the many costumes that I saw as they were extravagant with many hints of humor. The second story I heard was the idea of a role reversal where people could, for the celebrations, transcend into something that they were not. I often saw this idea at Carnaval with tattooed men dressed as the pope, females as males, and strong men like frail characters. Costumes also showed the Maastricht Carnaval red, yellow, and green colors. Whatever the origins of Pakske were, the reality of Carnaval showed thousands of people celebrating their community uniquely and beautifully.
Pekske
Zate Hermeniekes
The Zate Hermeniekes, or "tipsy brass bands," played music throughout the day. Whatever crammed street you were on or in the city center, you could see and hear excellent brass bands playing music to the sight of costumed people walking. Many times, floats and huge displays would accompany the bands. What surprised me the most was seeing Kilted Piper bands, which made my head wondering what the connection to Scottish pipe bands was (maybe I will find out soon).
City Marching Band
Maastricht is a beautiful city with wonderful traditions. I recommend anybody visit Maastricht during Carnaval. Or, celebrate these fun practices in another Dutch city. Til next time, Carnaval. Tot Ziens. And to everyone else, explore responsibly.
By: Rainier Lee
Navigating Korean Work Culture
Surviving in a high stress work culture
Imagine you are a 12-year-old student. You begin your school day at 8:00 am and finish classes at around 3:30 pm. From there, you take a short break and head to a three-hour after-school English class from 4:00 - 6:50 pm. Your day, however, does not end at 6:50 pm. You quickly go to the nearest GS25 and grab a prepackaged kimbap before attending math or science courses until 10:00 pm. You finally get home and are exhausted, knowing each lesson includes studying, homework, and assignments due in two days. Welcome to the daily life of some of my Korean students, a culture that I found myself in the middle of as a teacher in South Korea.
From February 2020 to May 2022, I worked in South Korea at English academies. In Korea, they are called Hagwans 학원, or 'cram schools' because they cram students into continuous learning. In my first year in Gwangju 광주광역시, I worked as a 1st-grade homeroom teacher who then taught after-school three-hour English acquisition courses that incorporated social studies, science, and language arts themes. My Hagwan followed a 'no red holidays' policy, which required me to teach students who attended classes on national holidays. My school also had a zero sick day policy that would cut your pay by two days if you called in sick. My work realities reflect a hectic yearly schedule for Hagwan teachers, who, like their students, require a strict dedication to education.
With that background, let's go back to the title of this blog: "Navigating Korean Work Culture." Working in Korea brought me joy and beautiful experiences. However, it also produced stress to my body and mind. I coursed those realities through an appreciation of Korea. With that in mind, here are five tips for navigating Korean work culture, particularly when teaching at a Hagwon.
1. Appreciate Korea's Nature
When living in Gwangju, I often found myself in the nearby mountains called Mudeungsan 무등산. Nature brought me peace and calm. A thirty-minute bus ride cost $1.50 and transported me into the beautiful mountains of Jeollaldal province. The same concept applied to me when I lived in Jeju-do 제주도, an island just south of the Korean Peninsula. In Jeju-do, I would take a bus or drive my car 10-30 minutes to the nearest coastline and detach from Hagwan life by reading The Lord of the Rings and watching the sunset on a beach. I could even find an escape when I substituted in Seoul 서울 for a month by taking a bus to Bukhasan 북한산 on the weekend. So, whether you live in a metropolitan city or a countryside island, I highly suggest appreciating Korea's nature.
2. Take Advantage of Cheap and Safe Transportation
South Korea has some of the world's most convenient and safe transportation. When living in Gwangju, my friends and I routinely took weekend trips to Busan, Yoesu, Goeje, Damyang, and more cities in southern Korea. My favorite trips were to Jeonju Cultural Village, which offered rich experiences filled with Korean history and art. These trips were possible because it is cheap, safe, and clean to take inner-city buses across the country. Moreover, when I lived in Jeju-do, I bought a reliable car from an ex-pat Facebook group that only cost me 2.5 million Won (about $2000). With the car, I could travel to and from work and drive across the island on the weekends. I highly suggest using cheap and safe transportation in Korea to explore the surrounding areas.
3. Involve Yourself With Your Community
Many ex-pats can feel lonely when living in Korea due to differences in culture, language, and social structures. In Gwangju, fellow teachers and I participated in movie/game nights, celebrated American (USA) holidays together, and tried new things in our city. My favorite time of the year was in May when citizens (Korean and foreigners) marched in unity for those who suffered during the Gwangju massacre in the 1980s. I also saw foreigners creating bands, participating in language exchanges, and joining Taekwondo 태권도 groups. Moving to another country can be daunting. It helps to balance these new realities by celebrating your life in Korea while also creating a secure space where you can acknowledge the needs of your own culture.
4. Develop Professionally
Many young foreigners come to Korea to work as Hagwon teachers for a year or two, then find themselves burnt out. My greatest advice is to use your time in Korea to work towards something better. When looking for a job, I suggest looking at Dave's ESL Cafe and researching the school and region before accepting the job. Hagwon teachers should not be paid anything less than 2.4 million Won, even for first-time teachers. So, be wise and do some research before taking a job. Also, consider your job as an opportunity to develop professionally. In Korea, I saw international teaching as the means to live abroad. Nevertheless, Hagwons did not offer me enough paid time off (the average Hagwon job only gives ten days of vacation a year). International schools, in contrast, offer, on average, three months of annual paid leave and around double the pay of Hagwons. During my years in Korea I put effort into becoming a better teacher, even when my schools practiced poor pedagogy. I also obtained a Masters of Education in TESOL and completed a teaching certification program, making me more competitive as an international teacher. If you find yourself stuck at a Hagwon but serious about education, I highly suggest taking Moreland University's Teach-Now Certification program, which allows US citizens and other nationalities to be certified as teachers. The program is only $7000 and takes about a year. After obtaining a teacher certificate you have the ability to work at international schools.
5. Try Something New
When living abroad, you have the opportunity to start anew. I took my love of nature and hiking to a new level by falling in love with photography. I also did what any young person does when getting an end-of-the-year bonus and bought an expensive gift for myself (a drone). Korea, and Jeju-do specifically, allowed me to try a new hobby in aerial photography. I also tried learning Hangul 한글, Korea's beautiful and well-structured written form. Whatever your interests, I highly suggest trying something new to destress from a hectic work culture.
By: Rainier Lee