The West Highland Way: Solo Walking 100 Miles in the Scottish Wilderness
Blisters, rain, midges (Scottish hell flies), with what felt like trench foot was quite the experience walking 100 miles through the Scottish Highlands. Yet, the aches, pain, and discomfort were constantly silenced by the beautiful views of glens, lochs, and woodlands springing with wildlife. To give context, this August, I walked the West Highland Way, a 96-mile path (I added 4 extra miles to round up to 100) that combines goat paths, farm trails, old military roads, and more, flowing through some of the most stunning Scottish landscapes imaginable.
So, what brought me to walk this route? I walked the same path with my father for his retirement trip six years ago. Back then, I was living in Pennsylvania, on the east coast of the USA. Now, I live in the Netherlands, and being so close to Scotland, it is always a tease to see cheap tickets from Amsterdam to the land I consistently long to visit, the land of my ancestors, Scotland. I was also mentally and physically drained from my job as a teacher (as all teachers are in the summer). So, with no preparation and a week's notice, why not walk the West Highland Way and wild camp as a restart? Here's how it went.
Day 1: Milngavie to Balmaha, 21 Miles.
I started with high spirits. Having had a Full Scottish Breakfast and prepacked lunch, I dashed out with all my camera gear, backpack, and a compact tent with my sleeping bag. My gear felt heavy, but my feet felt light. The first scenes I saw were the rolling hills of the lowlands of Scotland scattered with fields of heather that covered almost everything. It did not feel bare as the fields were often scattered with farm animals such as cows and sheep. I remembered from 6 years ago that this was the most straightforward route (physically), so I made it my goal to go as far as Loch Lomond, which meant walking over 20 miles. With that in mind, I did not rush the walk. I took my time photographing animals, rivers, and the various sights on the way. I only stopped for lunch in a forest to eat my premade sandwich. The hardest part of the day was when I reached Conic Hill, which feels like a mountain. You ascend and descend it before reaching the final stop, Loch Lomond.
Day 2: Balmaha to Invernen, 22.5 Miles.
Day two started with typical cloudy weather. The route was the complete length of Loch Lomond. The path itself was an old wild goat's path that the famous outlaw and cattle thief Rob Roy used to escape government forces. The terrain was rough. It felt less like a walking path and more like a bouldering path that winded through miles of forest. That said, I had a good time, and to my surprise, I passed many fellow walkers. I then made it to Inversnaid Falls, where I had planned to camp but felt strong and, to my mistake, pushed on in hopes of finishing a further 9 miles that day to make it to Beinglas Campsite. I made it to the final destination but at a high cost. As soon as I left Inversnaid Falls, the sky poured nonstop, and being outside of the forests around the banks of Loch Lomond left me with no shelter from the rain (I was ill-prepared).
Day 3 and 4: Inverarnen to Bridge of Orchy, 18 Miles.
Day three started cold, wet, and miserable. Besides a beautiful sunrise on Loch Lomond, my shoes were soaked, and the walk that day felt sad, to say the least (the photos tell a prettier story). So, needing time to heal my feet and dry my clothes, I decided to stop in Tyndrum for a hotel stay for two nights. The following day, I walked to Bridge of Orchy and took a train back to Tyndrum to take care of my feet further and let my tent dry out. I learned a few things:
Have an oversized, more powerful poncho (I bought one in Tyndrum) to go over allyour gear.
Always keep your feet dry (invest in good shoes).
Scotland has a great train and bus network in the remotest parts of the Highlands.
Day 5: Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven, 21 Miles
Upon resting in a hotel that felt like a luxury to the wild camping that I had done, I bussed to the Bridge of Orchy (where I had previously stopped the day before) and sallied forth to Kinlochleven—the day started with the River Orchy rushing past an old historic bridge toward the stunning sights of the highlands. I stopped the most on this day simply to take photos and take in the awe-inspiring sights of the West Highlands. Glencoe was a stunning sight as I continued the walk. Then, I made it to The Devil's Staircase, a winding path whose name came from workers in the past who died trying to climb it after visiting the local pub. The walk did not feel bad as the weather was excellent, and it felt easier than Conic Hill on the first day. The feeling of walking through the glens and the stunning Scottish scenery showed how famous poets such as Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott could have written such poetry inspired by this region. The day ended where I wanted, in Kinlochleven, as I wild-camped and walked into town for some delicious, well-earned Chinese food.
Day 6: Kinlochleven to Fort William, 17.5 Miles
My last day felt long. It started with saying goodbye to Kinlochleven and ascending the mountains beside it. The views were much like those from the previous days, with stunning glens. My feet, however, were not well. I had what can best be described as trench feet, where my feet were constantly wet (from wet boots). To paint a better picture and excuse the graphic nature, much of the skin around my toes had rubbed off, making each step painful. So, what should have been my most accessible day felt like a never-ending step on nails. To make things worse, the rain had made the path feel like a small river, so it was nearly impossible to stay dry. I was so tempted to call it quits, but the notion of not finishing fueled me to complete the trail as the last views of Ben Nevis and Fort William came into view. In the end, I reached the final destination and treated myself to some McDonalds.
If you ever want to complete the West Highland Way, here are a few tips.
Bring a mask that keeps Midges away (it can be a simple mosquito net).
Keep your gear and shoes as dry as possible, which can simply mean bringing an oversized waterproof poncho.
Make sure to take a break when you need. I did so in the middle in Tyndrum (get a hotel to break up the wild camping).
Take your time. It is not a race, and you should enjoy the views.
If anything, I hope this blog inspires anyone to walk the West Highland Way and, if not, get out in nature and enjoy one of the best modes of transportation, your feet. And as always, explore responsibly.
By: Rainier Lee
Life Abroad: Becoming an International Teacher
Becoming an international school teacher
Snorkeling in the Caribbean, walking the streets of Amsterdam, eating freshly caught seafood on a volcanic Asian island by Heanyeo (sea-women), and taking road trips across the Golden State. I look back at these memories and have to remind myself that it was not daydreaming, nor was I reminiscing about past vacations that I had to save up half a lifetime to achieve. These memories are, instead, places where I lived and taught as an international teacher. Teaching abroad has been challenging, and obtaining this lifestyle is difficult. However, I hope this blog can encourage those who want to live an adventurous life to consider teaching abroad (the smart way).
Where to begin? During my childhood, I grew up with a third-culture perspective. My mother is Dutch, but her family is Indo (mixed-race) from the East Indies, now called Indonesia. My father comes from Southern California and is half-Mexican with a blend of various European ancestry. Both parents have Jewish heritage. Growing up in the USA to a military family meant moving all around the states, typically every 4-years. Experiencing different cultures soon led me to become an anthropologist (ethnographer). With an eagerness to experience culture further, my wife and I decided to become English teachers in early 2020 and move to South Korea, as rumors of a strange virus were spreading in Asia (COVID).
We had planned to stay in South Korea for a year but found ourselves there for almost three years. During this time, I saw the beauty of teaching, where I could interact with students and teachers worldwide. I was an English Teacher at a Language Academy. Yet, I wanted to transition to teaching at an international school, allowing me further professional development and more than eight times the vacation time (also over twice the pay). I thought, "How can I teach at an international school when my background is in anthropology and not education?" Then, like a lightbulb, I saw a post on an expat Facebook group that said there was a cheap 1-year online program tailor-made for teachers like me.
Moreland University:
Taking the Moreland University program took a lot of work. On paper, it is a straightforward program. There is cheap online tuition and eight modules you can complete in your own time, typically taking 12 months, and the course has around 12-20 other members in your cohort (you can take breaks and join other cohorts later). During the process, Moreland also guides you on how to take Praxis Tests (you pay and schedule those outside of the program). This gives you certification in Washington D.C., recognized abroad because it is a USA teaching certificate. You can also tag a Master of Education from Moreland, which is relatively affordable.
You will need a few things for though, including a Bachelor's or equivalent degree. You do not have to be an American citizen, as I know Canadians, Brits, and other nationalities who took this teaching program (I’m also a dual citizen and it was transferable to my current Dutch school). You are also encouraged to have access to either a classroom or school affiliation for the last two months because the last modules require you to collaborate with teaching. I encourage those who are or want to be teachers to take this program. For English Language Teachers like me, it is a step toward better pay, vacation, and professional development. For those who want to live abroad, it gives you the qualifications to become an international teacher. For those who are already certified teachers, it offers an affordable Master' degree that will provide you with further access to job opportunities and pay. Overall, I highly recommend Moreland University as it has helped me obtain teaching jobs worldwide.
To end my rant, if you are a global citizen, a full-time traveler, or are curious about a sustainable lifestyle abroad, I encourage you to become an international school teacher. I have always belonged to a wandering culture, and now I can do so with purpose. I have taught primary, middle, and upper-level education in Latin America, East Asia, and now Europe. This life is possible and sustainable. All you have to do is become a teacher.
By: Rainier Lee
Sign-Up for More Information:
Moving to The Netherlands
What to expect when you move to the Netherlands
After many years of living in Asia, Latin America, and the USA, my family and I finally settled in the country we’ve always dreamed of living in: The Netherlands. I found myself in a unique situation getting here. Having US and Dutch citizenship, my move to the Netherlands felt like a long awaited homecoming. However, it is also a new adventure because regardless of being a Dutchie, I have never lived here and have only visited the country two times in my life. So, please join me on my first impressions of the "homeland" I know little of.
Travel
Unsurprisingly, traveling within the Netherlands is very easy. Taking the train from major cities using the NS travel app allows quick and accessible exploration. However, it is pretty expensive compared to when I lived in South Korea, which also has good inner-city transportation, though you can save money through subscriptions. I use the NS Flex, which gives me 40% off on weekends and during off-peak hours for only a few euros a month. The Netherlands is also a small nation, making it easy to traverse from one part of the country to another.
Being only a 30-minute train ride from Schipol Airport also helps as it is a significant hub for air travel in Europe. In the first six months of living here, I have traveled to Scotland twice, Germany once, and I have a trip planned to Italy next month. Because of Schipol's location, most European flights take only around an hour, another perk of its location.
Lifestyle
Doe Normaal, meaning act normally, can best describe my lifestyle in the Netherlands. But, what is "normal." For me, it's balance. It is 'normaal' to bike to work and back regardless of the weather. It is 'normaal' to take lunch breaks at work and not burn yourself out. It is 'normaal' to eat cheese and brootje (breads) in small portions. Lastly, is it 'normal' to take vacations regularly. So, for me, the Dutch lifestyle shows balance in both mental and physical health.
Dutch Culture
The one thing I have noticed since living in the Netherlands is that it has many regions and sub-cultures. Limberg, Friesland, and Holland have different aesthetics and histories, which is shown through various interactions. I live in Noord-Holland, so my example will come from my experiences working and living in this region.
Dutch culture is, in fact, direct. But why? Well, the historical significance comes from its merchant past. During the golden age of trading, merchants from the port cities of Holland traversed the globe, trading in spices, mercantile, and more. When dealing with different cultures and languages, one must be straightforward in what one wants to give and take. This tradition has continued to this day. So, when the Dutch are direct, don't be offended; understand that it connects to their historical past.
Other small things that I have noticed are food and gestures. When someone wants to express their enjoyment of their meal, they wave back and forth near their ear to show it is tasty. This happens often when my baby is eating, and kind Dutch people walk up waving their ears at her, saying, "Lekker." I love this gesture and use it frequently now in a comedic fashion. Food here, however, is not that 'lekker.' Having moved here from Latin America as well as South Korea, I am used to intense flavors in my food. A piece of cheese and bread is a typical lunch I see at work. The simplicity of the meals, nevertheless, needs to be remembered with the quality of the ingredients. Fresh bread and cheese have become quite 'lekker' (as I wave my hand near my ear). But, if you do get sick of simplicity, the Netherlands also has wonderful food from around the world. My favorite is Indonesian cuisine, which is common and tastes like home to me (my grandparents are from the East Indies).
Closing Thoughts
I close my first impressions about moving to the Netherlands with excitement. I am keen to live in a land where my life can feel balanced as well as explore the country, culture, and nature within my "kleine land." I hope that anyone will also visit the Netherlands and look further than what you would typically see when visiting this nation. And as always, when doing so, explore responsibly.
By: Rainier Lee
Honduras: More Than Violent Headlines
Redefine Honduras’ global stereotypes
A year in Honduras. Wow, I never thought I would say those words, let alone find myself working and living there for a year. Yet, here I am. A year in Honduras has far outperformed my expectations. It has also shattered negative preconceived notions. Stereotypes of violence and danger were replaced with gratitude for living in such a lovely country.
For context, I moved to Honduras in August 2022 upon signing a year contract to work at an international school in San Pedro Sula. I was excited about my career as an educator because, on paper, it was an elite school well-known in all of Central America. A year of hard work (as a 1st-grade teacher) showed through learning a new culture, growing my family, and exploring through photography.
I quickly found myself fortunate to live in San Pedro Sula, surrounded by the El Merendon mountain range bustling with green forests and colorful animals. Honduras' beautiful East Coast was also a marvel. Tela's Playa Miami (Miami Beach) had some of the most stunning views from the sky, where a saltwater lagoon met the ocean divided by a thin line of beach with palm trees. Within a boat ride, I was also able to explore Punta Sal, where a speed boat could take you to secluded beaches shaded with trees topped with howler monkeys.
With an anthropologist background, I was fascinated by the country's cultural diversity and incredible history. The Mayan Ruins of Copan, where scarlet macaws flew, transported me into the past. Utila's turquoise water and isolated cays were also complimented by wonderful people whose history merged from Europe, Central America, and Africa. The experience of talking to people with heritage from around the globe helped me appreciate the cultural diversity of Honduras.
Living in San Pedro Sula had complications as well. When it is over 100 degrees (40c), and your power goes out, you feel it. Country-wide power outages and the constant reminder that you are highly privileged compared to most Hondurans was difficult. Yet, every country has its hardships, and I sought to see the beauty of Honduras, which is often overlooked by a negative global perspective of the region.
To close my year's reflection on living in Honduras, I ask that people do one simple thing. Reimagine Honduras beyond the negative global stereotype.
Honduras' coffee is the smoothest in the world and should be complimented with a fresh samita. Its nature is untouched by 'industry and springing with wildlife rivaling Costa Rica. Its rivers snake through the land like wild tapestries. Its people welcome you with open arms, and you never feel like a stranger. Its culture springs with life from Punta dancing to Semana Santa processions. Honduras is more than violent headlines. It is a land of wonder.
Te Amo, HN 504. Explore responsibly.
By: Rainier Lee
My brief guide to Belize: Caye Caulker and San Ignacio
Caye Caulker
(Belize uses the Belize dollar as its currency, and it is set at a 2:1 ratio to the US dollar; to keep it simple, all costs mentioned in this blog post are in USD)
My decision to travel to Belize was quite a spontaneous one. I had heard about this small country years ago mainly because it has such an interesting history and is the only Central American country with English as its first language. Belize is a true melting pot of cultures; its ancient history dates back to the extensive Mayan civilisation, whose ruins and artefacts can be seen spread out across the country. Thousands of years later, Spanish explorers arrived and ruled many parts of the Mayan land. However, the British were the first to set up permanent settlements and introduced the African and Caribbean slave trade, which resulted in the development of the Creole language and culture. Many Europeans attempted to settle on this land, however, the British colony, which lasted over a hundred years, has been the most notable in recent history, with Belize still part of the Commonwealth even after its independence in 1981. Belize is also home to a large Garinagu and Mestizo population, a community of German Mennonites from Mexico and Canada and a large Chinese and Taiwanese population who first arrived as labourers but are now part of an investment agreement between the two countries. The amalgamation of all these cultures can be seen and felt in its people, cities, and its food.
As I said, this trip was somewhat spontaneous; one thing I love about traveling in a backpacker style is not having everything planned out beforehand. I knew Guatemala and Mexico were next on my list, but I had a little time to kill and needed to renew my CA-4 visa. I did a quick Google search, compared buses, and found a decently priced flight from San Pedro Sula (Honduras) to Belize City. Sold!
On the 20th of June, I arrived at the airport, cue one of the most surprising days of my trip so far. I was so confused as to why I couldn’t do online check-in the day before, why I couldn’t find the check-in desk easily once I got to the airport, and why the only information on my very flimsy ticket was my name and the boarding time. Then I saw the plane, and it made sense, I and only 7 other passengers bordered a small single-prop airplane. I knew this flight would be worth it (vs. a 16+hr bus journey), but I didn’t think it would be this worth it. We boarded the plane, able to sit anywhere we chose. I sat right behind the pilots and had a double seat all to myself. And I was worried I wasn’t going to get a window seat! The flight took about an hour, and we watched the Honduran mountains transform into the vast blue Caribbean Sea. About 20 minutes into the flight, I saw the beginnings of the vast Belize Barrier Reef, the second largest barrier reef in the world. We stuck close to the mainland, but the views were still awe-inspiring. Even the pilot took out his phone for a few quick snaps. We landed at Belize International Airport (not to be confused with the smaller airport closer to the city center). However, I didn’t plan to spend any time in Belize City. Most people use it as a landing spot to explore the more inland parts of the country or its extensive Caye system. Which is exactly what I did, heading first to Caye Caulker.
The most common way to get from the airport to the ferry or water taxi terminal is by taxi. Apparently, the price for these taxis is set at $30 per person; luckily, I found a shuttle company through Facebook and, very last minute, booked a shuttle for $16. These shuttles are usually shared, but as I was the only one, I got it all to myself. The driver was so friendly and helped me get to the terminal right on time for the 10:30 water taxi. The water taxis are pretty well organized. A return ticket cost me $39, and it took just under an hour to get to the island. Once you get to Caye Caulker, you can easily grab a golf cart taxi to take you to your accommodation, but the island is small, and it’s likely you won’t be staying far. Even with my large suitcase, I decided to walk through the sandy streets and to my hostel, Tropical Oasis.
Caye Caulker, known for being laid-back and backpacker-friendly, is where you are reminded to “go slow.” There are signs all over the island stating this and nearly everyone you pass, will give you a gentle or not-so-gentle reminder. On my first night, I was walking to a shop after dinner, and as I passed a lively bar and restaurant, the friendly host shouted, “Why are you walking so fast, lady? Go slow”. I put my hands up, apologised, and realised I was probably rushing for no reason. I was officially on island time and learning to embrace it. I spent a week on the Caye and loved it. I knew I would, but there’s something about being on a white sand island with some of the bluest water I’d ever seen, walking barefoot to find a spot (or hammock) to read in the sun. I must admit I had a few moments of not really knowing what to do and ended up aimlessly walking around. Usually, some of the best days are spent like this, but it was so hot I often returned to my hostel for some slight respite. The highlight of the week was my snorkeling tour. Snorkeling and scuba diving are some of the main things to do on the Cayes due to the well-preserved reef system. I first did a half-day tour, and while it was incredible, I felt I needed more. We didn’t go to the main spots, and many areas were very ‘tame’ for lack of a better word. So I decided to also do a full-day tour a few days later. This did not disappoint! We set off at 10:30, and at our first stop, we were told to get ready and get in the water as quickly as possible; we jumped in, and, as we looked down, we saw a huge manatee idling at the bottom. We all knew it was manatee season, and to see one was at the top of everyone’s list. We watched the manatee come up for air, moving gently through the water despite its size. On the tour we went to 5 different snorkeling spots in total. The Hol Chan channel was one of my favorites, a deep channel with reefs on either side it’s the perfect place to see rays, sharks and big shoals of fish. I also got to practice some swim-throughs and breath holds; free diving, are you next? Halfway through the tour, we had a delicious locally prepared lunch on the boat, and by 4pm, we were back on the island. One of the best days of my trip so far!
When it was sadly time to leave the slow life behind, I walked back to the water taxi, where my luggage was checked in, and I hopped on board. Once you return to Belize City your luggage is brought out, and everyone stands around the pile of bags. You then have to try and spot your bag and get the attention of the porters who match your ticket number to your bag. It seemed kind of chaotic, but it didn’t take long to get my bag and then I headed to the bus terminal. This was only about a 10-minute walk, but you could also get a taxi for about $5 which would probably be easier. I got to the bus station and waited another 10 minutes for them to start selling tickets to San Ignacio; when the ticket seller arrived, I joined the queue and got a ticket for $5. Then we all waited about 30 minutes for the bus, which was bigger than I expected and unlike the chicken busses found in other parts of Central America; it was also air-conditioned! They put my bag underneath, and I was on. We started picking up more people as we left the city, so the bus was pretty full by the time we left; at this point, I was unsure if it was an express service or not, but I quickly realised it was a regular service as we frequently stopped to let people off and on. Even with the many stops, the journey took about 3 hours and was relatively comfortable. I have heard the express bus only takes around 2 hours, so that is definitely the best option; there is also the option of getting a tourist shuttle which picks you up from the water taxi terminal and will most likely drop you off at your hostel. However, I did hear that this can take the same amount of time and be extremely hot and cramped. All for an extra $20 - $30! Take the local bus instead!
Once I arrived in San Ignacio I had a short (but uphill) walk to my hostel, The Old House Hostel. This had a very homey feel, its perfect if you’re looking for a social spot that’s also pretty relaxed. The hostel also wasn’t full when I was there so there were plenty of places to hang out. There is also a bar located beneath the hostel, however, it only opens every Wednesday and Friday night. So don’t worry about loud music and late nights! This bar is run by Belize Soul Project which developed as a way for locals to display their art and also perform musically on the open-mic-style nights. They have cheap beers, and a few locally flavoured wines that they make in house (although I would say they are more like a cider). I enjoyed the few nights I spent here and I kind of wished the space was open more regularly, it has great potential to be a cosy coffee spot!
I didn’t have much planned for my time in San Ignacio and the town was a lot smaller than I expected. I was quite used to the quaint towns found in Nicaragua, however, Belize has a completely different feel to the rest of Central America so I suppose it would make sense that the cities do too. San Ignacio is a very basic town, with a small downtown area that has a few great food spots (restaurants and street food stalls), and a big market. The market has loads of fresh fruit and veg stalls, but Saturdays are when this market shines. Sellers from nearby villages and farms show off their fresh produce, delicious food and beautiful handmade goods. Unfortunately, my last day here happened to be a Saturday and even though I still got to enjoy the market I wished I had arrived on a Saturday instead as I would have loved to have stocked up on fresh tortillas, Taiwanese pancakes and local cheese for the next few days.
There are quite a few interesting sights and tours you can do from San Ignacio. The most popular being the ATM Cave tour, these tours can be quite expensive but I decided it was worth it and I’m so glad I got to experience it. I booked the tour through my hostel as it was cheaper and had been recommended by some other travellers. At 8 the next morning, three of us were picked up for our ‘private’ tour. This was in no way a private tour, however, with most other groups being around 8 people we definitely felt a bit special, we were also the first tour of the day inside the cave, I think we had speed on our side. Once we arrived at Actun Tunichil Muknal we got set up with our helmets and headlights and left any valuables in the car. To get to the cave you first have to walk along an easy path through the jungle, however, this does include 3 river crossings. Luckily the rainy season was only just beginning and the rivers weren’t flowing heavily. We got to the entrance of the cave and saw the clear blue waters inviting us in. It looked like any Indiana Jones style movie you can think of. We jumped into the cold water and made our way into the darkness. For thousands of years water has created intricate pathways which we followed for nearly 1km into the cave until it opened up into a few huge rooms. The main one, aptly called the Cathedral, was home to many ancient Mayan artefacts, mainly vases and pots which were used in rituals. The cave is believed to have been used as sacred worship space. Evidence of fires can still be seen as well extremely well preserved human skeletons, possibly evidence of human sacrifices. It was so fascinating seeing the leftovers of this ancient practice as well as experiencing such an incredible natural feat.
San Ignacio is also home to Cahal Pech, a small residential area of Mayan ruins. This was only a 10 minute walk away from my hostel and only cost $5 to enter. I arrived at about 9 in the morning and had the entire place to myself. It is much smaller and less impressive than other ruins such as Tikal or Caracol, however, I loved being able to walk around enjoying the quiet and the peace of the buildings and surrounding nature. It only took about an hour to see everything but its definitely worth it to spend some time here.
Other notable things to do in San Ignacio include a visit to the Green Iguana Conservation Project, partaking in the AJAW Chocolate Workshop and other cave and ruin tours. I also loved eating at Ko-Ox Han Nah restaurant, most blogs will recommend this place!
Sadly after my brief Saturday market trip it was time to leave this small, yet culturally mighty country. Luckily I met two girls at the hostel who were also travelling to Guatemala that day so we decided to travel together. From the centre of town, near the bus stop, we were able to get a taxi to take us to the border for $5 each. The drive only took about 20 minutes and we were at the border. This border crossing was the easiest I’ve done, maybe ever! At the first desk we paid our $20 exit tax, went to the next window to get our passports stamped and then we exchanged the last of our money and said goodbye to Belize. All of this took less than 10 minutes!
Next up, Guatemala!
by Victoria Briggs
3 Months in Nicaragua
Ometepe Island
After a 5am bus from San Pedro Sula, Honduras, which took close to 10 hours and included a slow border crossing, I arrived in León, marking the beginning of three months in incredible Nicaragua. I was slightly apprehensive about travelling to Central America. Apart from Costa Rica, the countries that make up this small connecting bit of land are not often talked about as top travelling destinations, at least not in South Africa. The only reason I knew about Nicaragua was from watching Survivor growing up. And if these countries are known, they’re known for being unsafe and risky. I quickly realised how unfortunate these stereotypes are. I wish I had known more about this part of the world sooner and I really hope more people can experience the magic of the jungles, the beaches, the volcanoes and everything in between. It is incredibly sad how many people perceive these countries as dangerous. Yes, there are instances of petty crime and some of the bigger cities have a dangerous side. You have to be aware of your surroundings, and as a solo female traveller, there are places I wouldn’t walk alone. Unfortunately, there are a lot of places in the world like this, yet they are not always talked about in the same way. I have heard stories of stolen belongings and I’m sure there are some mis-encounters. However, everywhere I’ve been so far, most people have been friendly and welcoming, and to me, the beauty of these countries overshadows the negativity and occasional mishap.
Crossing into Nicaragua from Honduras was relatively easy. I travelled with Ticabus, a reputable bus company with routes throughout Central America. When we got to the border the drivers and assistants helped us by collecting our money for the Nicaraguan entry and told us where to go. It was a bit of a slow process, however, it was easy and we all got through without any real problems. The bus journey was comfortable and quicker than I expected, we even got a free coupon for a drink and a snack at our halfway stop point. We arrived in León at a makeshift “bus stop” a little out of the city, so I jumped in a taxi knowing I’d probably end up paying a little more than I should. The drive to the hostel was beautiful. We passed quaint streets, houses with colourful flowers draping over the walls, people riding bicycles and horse carts, everything lit up by the setting sun. I didn’t expect this little city to be so instantly captivating.
I only spent two nights in León, however, I felt like it was enough in this small but intriguing city. Many people are drawn to León for the famous volcano boarding. I didn’t partake in this adrenaline-boosting activity but it is a must if you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind experience. My favourite part of León was climbing to the top of The Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary and walking on its white roof while watching the sun set over the city and the distant volcanoes. A highlight was also the amazing street food from a very well-equipped (with local food and smiling chefs) stall just behind the cathedral. After a hot, busy day of walking and exploring, I tucked into a banana leaf plate of Nicaraguan-style empanadas, tacos, sweet plantains and, of course, gallo pinto (rice and beans).
The next day it was time to leave this rustic yet charismatic city. I booked a shared shuttle to get from León to Granada. These are a good option if you want to travel between cities without using the local buses or splurging on an expensive taxi. The drive took about three hours and we stopped at most of the central hostels to pick up or drop people off.
Ah, Granada. When I began writing this post I was sitting in my hostel in Granada looking out onto the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Las Mercedes (the La Merced Church). I had only been there a week but I was already blown away by this friendly, colourful and historic city. The streets are always bustling with taxis and chicken buses (the name given to old American school buses that have been converted into public buses for locals and travellers). People on bicycles, motorbikes and market sellers carry their goods through the streets. I loved watching the people go about their daily lives, living in a world so far from mine.
Granada became my home for the next four weeks and I will miss walking to the local market to buy my avocado and fruit for the day, practising my very little Spanish with the friendly stall owners while slowly getting used to the chaos around me. I loved walking through the streets in awe of the colourful houses, looking for a coffee shop or a new place to explore. Granada has so much to offer, arguably the most famous attraction is the weekly jungle treehouse rave. Every Friday the Treehouse Hostel hosts a vibrant rave in the middle of the jungle. I had to attend this at least once, which was an unforgettable experience. There is something special about being surrounded by cicadas and the odd howler monkey while watching the sunset before a night of dancing in the jungle. There is so much to see only a short ride out of the city. I also spent a day in Masaya, known for its sprawling market and local food, baho, yucca and meat steamed and served with plantains and cabbage salad. I also visited the Masaya Volcano, where you can peer into the Santiago crater and see hot, bubbling lava. I also spent a few days at the Laguna de Apoyo, another volcanic crater but this one you can swim in. The clear water creates the perfect place to cool off or do some free-driving, the only place this is offered in Nicaragua.
As March ended, the already hot city began heating up even more, the humidity settling in and signalling the start of the rainy season. As my volunteering job was coming to end I was feeling ready to get to the coast and see more of this amazing country.
I left Granada and headed slightly south to visit my friends who were living and working in a small beach town called El Gigante. It was so good to be back with friends and be able to experience this little bit of paradise they were calling home. After a week, we grabbed a chicken bus and headed to the small but busy city of Rivas to catch the ferry to Ometepe Island. This island, situated in Lake Nicaragua, is made up of two volcanoes. A smaller dormant one and a larger active one. These two volcanoes create a magical backdrop; no matter where you are, you’re bound to see at least one looming overhead or peaking through the trees. It is a peaceful yet active place, perfect for hiking, kayaking, exploring waterfalls and riding a scooter or motorbike. It is also the ideal place to recuperate, relax, and watch a magical sunset. I only spent 5 days on this intriguing island but it is easy to see why it is known as “the island of the gods.” It is a magical place with ancient petroglyphs and cold spring water pools, both travellers and locals seem to have a shared understanding of respect for each other and the land.
I left Ometepe ready for the next half of my Nicaraguan adventure, Playa El Tránsito and the Free Spirit Hostel. I’m unsure if I can describe how this place found such a special home in my heart, but I’ll try. Only an hour from León but down a dusty dirt road, El Tránsito is a tiny surf and fishing town that feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere. I arrived by taxi but quickly learnt it was easy and safe enough to hitchhike and grab a bus if you ever needed to escape to the city (not that you’ll ever really want to). The street nearby (although we often just used the beach) consisted of a few local restaurants, two coffee shops, a handful of small stores and lots of chickens, dogs and horses walking freely. I quickly got used to this slow, barefoot way of life.
I was lucky enough to be volunteering at the Free Spirit Hostel, where I organised events, managed their social media and did some photography for them. In exchange, I got accommodation, breakfast, dinner, and access to surfboards and yoga classes. I became a part of an ever-changing, incredible hostel family. Since I started travelling I try not to get too attached to a place, as the one downside to always being on the move are the goodbyes, just as one of the huge upsides are the hellos. It was almost impossible not to become hooked on this paradise and its people. I had the most incredible seven weeks surfing, practicing yoga, reading in the sun, eating good food, watching sunsets, singing karaoke, dancing on the bar, swimming under the full moon, and most importantly, creating lasting new friendships.
I am so thankful for my time in Nicaragua. Even though I only explored a small slice of this beautiful country, I feel enriched and inspired. I will miss everything about it, especially the people, the parties, the laughs, and the hammocks.
I attempted to capture the beauty and the magic of this country in my photos below, I hope they inspire you as they do me. ¡Diviértete!
By Victoria Briggs
Hot To Get a Dutch Passport
Steps on how to get dual citizenship as a child of a Dutch mother
Ik ben een Nederlander. Well, kind of. I was born and raised in the United States of America. My childhood in Tennessee was always an anomaly. I had a Mexican-American father and a Dutch-Indonesian mother. Our home language was English, with a touch of Californian and Tennessee slang. Being Dutch was to me, stroopwafels on Christmas and my family joking that Zwarte Piet would come to take me if I misbehaved. We called slippers "sloffen" and told our mother she was related to Goldmember from Austin Powers. We were far removed from our Dutch family as my large household (I have three brothers) could not afford to visit family in the Netherlands. In fact, my mom was also relatively withdrawn from her Dutch past as she moved to the United States with her family when she was two years old. Facing anti-immigrant realities, her family decided to raise her as an American, and in my Oma's words, "speak American at home" as well.
My journey to obtain Dutch citizenship was always a dream growing up with my brother Keir. However, we were often told that the Netherlands does not accept dual citizenship. Then, in 2019, we visited our aunt in Amsterdam (our first time in the Netherlands) and fell in love with the country. I was transitioning to work in South Korea and thought, "Why not try to get citizenship?" What transpired was research, translation, and what felt like a mountain of red tape to cross. The outcome: In the summer of 2020, I got an email from the Dutch embassy in San Fransisco stating that my passport was ready to be picked up or sent to me.
My blog post will tell how I obtained my Dutch passport at 27. I hope to answer the why, where, and how to get Dutch citizenship through birth. My experience is my own, and I cannot guarantee your Dutch passport as laws change, and every case can vary depending on who you talk to. But, if you have a Dutch parent and you are seeking dual citizenship, I hope this post helps.
Why?
I wanted to get my Dutch citizenship for many reasons. With an EU passport, one can easily travel around Europe. Living in Europe is also more accessible, and attending university in many parts of Europe is cheaper. I can now vote, live, and access healthcare in the Netherlands with Dutch citizenship. Also, I have always been drawn to my Dutchiness because of my curiosity about my family's history, culture, and past. So, the better question for me was, "Why not?"
Where?
The first place to search if you qualify and the process is www.government.nl. The site will help guide you through qualifications, laws, and the process. You can also call or email for support. A quick Google search can get you to the needed page on the government's site. This link will direct you to the part that you will need to go to:
https://www.government.nl/topics/dutch-citizenship/becoming-a-dutch-citizen
This site will walk you through the many ways and steps to becoming a Dutch citizen. You should also email your nearest Dutch consulate/embassy. I contacted the Dutch Console in San Fransisco because my birth certificate and paperwork came from California.
How?
There are three ways to become a Dutch citizen. Acknowledge Parentage, Option Procedure, and Naturalization. For me, I went the Acknowledge Parentage path. Naturally, this was the way because my mother was Dutch when I was born. Upon layered research and emails, I found that I had always been a citizen due to my parentage. However, my mother or I needed to acknowledge it. There were two options for this process. The first was my mother acknowledging me at birth. The second was acknowledging myself at a municipal office in the Kingdom of the Netherlands or a Dutch representative sight abroad (embassy/console), which I did. WARNING: If you go this path, you must do it before 30 because that is the cut-off date. You automatically renounce your citizenship if you have yet to acknowledge yourself as Dutch after age 30. You must also live in the Kingdom of the Netherlands (ABC islands included) for a full uninterrupted year within ten years after receiving the passport. If not, your passport is forfeited.
Breakdown:
Here is a breakdown of what I needed at the time. Note, I was getting a Dutch passport, which equates to citizenship, as you can only have a passport to the countries you are a national of. Make sure to ask your local Dutch representative before to make sure you have the correct paperwork.
I filled out correct paperwork to get a passport (you can easily translate them from Dutch online).
I paid the fee to apply for a passport, which cost $160.
I got a copy of my mother's Dutch passport/birth certificate (proving I had a Dutch parent).
I brought my birth certificate with an apostle (my birth certificate showed that my mom was Dutch at my birth).
I got passport photos that have specific Dutch requirements (35 mm x 45 mm).
To end, on paper, it seems an easy process. There were no language requirements. It also only cost $160. However, obtaining the documentation from around the USA, getting many of them an apostle, and applying to an embassy/consulate that processes passports is costly. That said, it was completely worth it. If you find yourself with a Dutch parent and are not 30 years old yet, I highly suggest going Dutch. I saw it as an investment to eventually living in the Netherlands. The USA/NL partnership also allows for dual citizenship. I hope you find this post helpful on your journey to becoming Dutch.
By: Rainier Lee
Reflecting on South Korea
Gwanaksan, Seoul
In February 2020 I moved to South Korea. Not knowing what I was getting myself into, I decided I wanted to teach English. I know, groundbreaking. I realized how much I liked being with and working with children and learnt that I wasn’t terrible at it either. Although I had never taught anything before, I assumed this would be easy as I’ve spoken English my whole life and even studied English lit for two years at university. Of course, the possibility of travel initially drew me to teaching English abroad. I would be in a new country with new experiences looming around every corner, and I would also be earning money that I could use to travel in the future. A win-win-win. And to be honest, it was. I don’t want to fool you though, it definitely wasn’t as ‘easy’ as I thought it would be and I quickly learnt the realities of being a foreign English teacher in Korea. You have to get used to the fact that you are a relatively easily expendable resource. Generalising warning: this often leads to long work hours and very few breaks, not to mention everyone’s favourite, micromanaging. Not only do I have many stories from my personal experience but I also have endless stories from my friends. It was exhausting, and not only because I was working with children. This may seem like quite a negative way to start this post, but I think it’s important to highlight the positives while also shedding some light on what these experiences are really like. It definitely wasn't all bad. I met some of my best friends here, got to be part of the lives of so many wonderful children, and explored as much of such a beautiful country as possible. To put it simply, it was extremely worth it.
I must confess that before I moved to South Korea, I didn’t know a lot about the country, its people, or its culture. I grew up with no Korean restaurants near me and never went out of my way to try authentic Korean cuisine. Which sounds a little crazy considering how global and connected our world is. I realise now that simply becoming aware of something, in this case, Korean food enables you to see it in places you thought it never existed. Plus the fact that more people are making this food more accessible. Thank goodness. When I try to explain to people what Korean food is or what you’d find in a typical Korean household, they often have the same response: confusion. Confusion because they can’t quite understand why I like it so much. Spicy cabbage fermented in a clay urn in the ground for months?! But if you’ve ever tasted proper Kimchi you’ll know how it goes with every meal and how addicting it can be. Or the fresh seafood found along most of the coast, huge snow crab, local squid, giant muscles. The not-so-healthy but oh-so-good fried food, the street food you can never seem to escape from. I even grew to like the sweet crisps (chips) or the corn dogs rolled in sugar, but I’ll probably stick to my Korean ramyun. I fell in love with a lot of Korean food and I know it’ll be one of the things I miss the most.
Another thing I was pleasantly surprised by was the natural beauty of this small peninsula. Of course, it seems obvious that Korea would have some beautiful beaches and coastlines. Still, I never expected such clear, tropical-like waters, especially those around Jeju Island and the many smaller islands lining the west and south coast of the country. Korea’s inland, mountainous regions are a whole other marvel in themselves. I knew hiking was a big part of Korean culture and never questioned why. And I never really had to. After my first hike, which was only a thirty minute bus ride from my house, it was clear why it is such a popular pastime. The hikes are usually easily accessible, and there are often many different routes, ranging in distance and difficulty level. The bonus of hiking in Korea is that you are bound to stumble upon shrines, temples and traditional gates. I have often had the experience of turning a corner only to be met with a pristine, intricately designed temple seeming to appear out of nowhere. There are so many mountainous regions spread out across this small country that no matter where you are, there always seems to be a mountain waiting to be climbed.
I quickly fell in love with South Korea, all its beauty and quirks. I miss the convenience stores, the k-pop music blasting from storefronts, the busyness of the markets, and the LED signs lining the buildings. But I also crave the coolness of the ocean and the calm of the mountains.
So much happened in my two years of living in this incredible country that I sometimes find it hard to put it all into words. I had some of the best times but also some of the hardest. However, I attribute that to life in general rather than Korea. For now, my South Korean journey is over. I may go back one day, whether it be to visit or live is hard to say but right now there are so many more places waiting to be explored.
감사합니다 대한민국 (thank you South Korea)
By: Victoria Briggs
First Impressions of Honduras
Living in Honduras as an international school teacher
Breathtaking waterfalls, wild macaws, stunning coral reefs, and a teaching job tucked next to a beautiful mountain range. Those are what I visualize when I think of my life in Honduras, different from my preconceptions before moving here. Since living in Honduras, I've received compliments from Catrachos (Hondurans) on representing the beauty of their 'Tierra' when world media displays it as a land of violence and poverty. Entering my seventh month living and working in Honduras, I see that it follows the national motto of Libre, Soberana e Independiente.
Hondurans convey a free (Libre) spirit, as their generosity shows in my daily life. The kind culture contradicts the violent stereotypes imagined before my arrival. It is common to be called 'mi amor' (my love) by strangers or have Honduran coworkers treat you like a family member they have known for decades.
The sovereign (Soberana) pride Hondurans display also caught me off guard. Many Hondurans live in the USA, but their culture's voice is sometimes underrepresented in a broad immigrant narrative. Nevertheless, living, working and celebrating local holidays in Honduras gave me an appreciation for the nation's sovereignty. The pride showed in a conversation with a taxi driver when I asked what parts of Honduras I should visit. With glee, excitement, and little English, he exclaimed, "mountains, mountains. Vamos to the mountains." Our Spanglish conversation lasted 45 minutes on our drive in thick traffic to the airport due to protests on the streets as he described his country's islands, hills, forests, churches, and people. He proudly said, "We poor country, pero, we have love for our country.”
Lastly, the country's independent (Independiente) character exhibits in its diverse culture. I live in San Pedro Sula, which has a robust Arab heritage that differs from the Mayan influence in Copan, the Garifuna in La Ceiba, and the Creole in the Bay Islands. The nation is an excellent example of a multicultural tapestry that brings unique perspectives and cultures together.
In closing my reflection on my first impressions of Honduras, I encourage anyone to visit this beautiful Tierra. Do not just visit Roaton (though I hear it is lovely), where cruise ships port. Visit the mainland where many foreigners fear to step. Walk among Mayan Ruins filled with scarlet macaws in Copan. Climb Pico Bonita and touch the clouds. Eat Pollo Chuco in Tegucigalpa. Take a ferry to Utila and learn to free-dive. Or, talk to a taxi driver in San Pedro Sula about mountains. Explore the wonderful country of Honduras, and you will experience more than the violent headlines in international news. Instead, you will find people whose spirits resemble a free, sovereign, and independent nation.
By: Rainier Lee
Pulhapanzak, Cortes
Neptune Beach, Utila
Wild Macaws, Copan
El Merendon Mountains, San Pedro Sula