3 Months in Nicaragua
Ometepe Island
After a 5am bus from San Pedro Sula, Honduras, which took close to 10 hours and included a slow border crossing, I arrived in León, marking the beginning of three months in incredible Nicaragua. I was slightly apprehensive about travelling to Central America. Apart from Costa Rica, the countries that make up this small connecting bit of land are not often talked about as top travelling destinations, at least not in South Africa. The only reason I knew about Nicaragua was from watching Survivor growing up. And if these countries are known, they’re known for being unsafe and risky. I quickly realised how unfortunate these stereotypes are. I wish I had known more about this part of the world sooner and I really hope more people can experience the magic of the jungles, the beaches, the volcanoes and everything in between. It is incredibly sad how many people perceive these countries as dangerous. Yes, there are instances of petty crime and some of the bigger cities have a dangerous side. You have to be aware of your surroundings, and as a solo female traveller, there are places I wouldn’t walk alone. Unfortunately, there are a lot of places in the world like this, yet they are not always talked about in the same way. I have heard stories of stolen belongings and I’m sure there are some mis-encounters. However, everywhere I’ve been so far, most people have been friendly and welcoming, and to me, the beauty of these countries overshadows the negativity and occasional mishap.
Crossing into Nicaragua from Honduras was relatively easy. I travelled with Ticabus, a reputable bus company with routes throughout Central America. When we got to the border the drivers and assistants helped us by collecting our money for the Nicaraguan entry and told us where to go. It was a bit of a slow process, however, it was easy and we all got through without any real problems. The bus journey was comfortable and quicker than I expected, we even got a free coupon for a drink and a snack at our halfway stop point. We arrived in León at a makeshift “bus stop” a little out of the city, so I jumped in a taxi knowing I’d probably end up paying a little more than I should. The drive to the hostel was beautiful. We passed quaint streets, houses with colourful flowers draping over the walls, people riding bicycles and horse carts, everything lit up by the setting sun. I didn’t expect this little city to be so instantly captivating.
I only spent two nights in León, however, I felt like it was enough in this small but intriguing city. Many people are drawn to León for the famous volcano boarding. I didn’t partake in this adrenaline-boosting activity but it is a must if you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind experience. My favourite part of León was climbing to the top of The Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary and walking on its white roof while watching the sun set over the city and the distant volcanoes. A highlight was also the amazing street food from a very well-equipped (with local food and smiling chefs) stall just behind the cathedral. After a hot, busy day of walking and exploring, I tucked into a banana leaf plate of Nicaraguan-style empanadas, tacos, sweet plantains and, of course, gallo pinto (rice and beans).
The next day it was time to leave this rustic yet charismatic city. I booked a shared shuttle to get from León to Granada. These are a good option if you want to travel between cities without using the local buses or splurging on an expensive taxi. The drive took about three hours and we stopped at most of the central hostels to pick up or drop people off.
Ah, Granada. When I began writing this post I was sitting in my hostel in Granada looking out onto the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Las Mercedes (the La Merced Church). I had only been there a week but I was already blown away by this friendly, colourful and historic city. The streets are always bustling with taxis and chicken buses (the name given to old American school buses that have been converted into public buses for locals and travellers). People on bicycles, motorbikes and market sellers carry their goods through the streets. I loved watching the people go about their daily lives, living in a world so far from mine.
Granada became my home for the next four weeks and I will miss walking to the local market to buy my avocado and fruit for the day, practising my very little Spanish with the friendly stall owners while slowly getting used to the chaos around me. I loved walking through the streets in awe of the colourful houses, looking for a coffee shop or a new place to explore. Granada has so much to offer, arguably the most famous attraction is the weekly jungle treehouse rave. Every Friday the Treehouse Hostel hosts a vibrant rave in the middle of the jungle. I had to attend this at least once, which was an unforgettable experience. There is something special about being surrounded by cicadas and the odd howler monkey while watching the sunset before a night of dancing in the jungle. There is so much to see only a short ride out of the city. I also spent a day in Masaya, known for its sprawling market and local food, baho, yucca and meat steamed and served with plantains and cabbage salad. I also visited the Masaya Volcano, where you can peer into the Santiago crater and see hot, bubbling lava. I also spent a few days at the Laguna de Apoyo, another volcanic crater but this one you can swim in. The clear water creates the perfect place to cool off or do some free-driving, the only place this is offered in Nicaragua.
As March ended, the already hot city began heating up even more, the humidity settling in and signalling the start of the rainy season. As my volunteering job was coming to end I was feeling ready to get to the coast and see more of this amazing country.
I left Granada and headed slightly south to visit my friends who were living and working in a small beach town called El Gigante. It was so good to be back with friends and be able to experience this little bit of paradise they were calling home. After a week, we grabbed a chicken bus and headed to the small but busy city of Rivas to catch the ferry to Ometepe Island. This island, situated in Lake Nicaragua, is made up of two volcanoes. A smaller dormant one and a larger active one. These two volcanoes create a magical backdrop; no matter where you are, you’re bound to see at least one looming overhead or peaking through the trees. It is a peaceful yet active place, perfect for hiking, kayaking, exploring waterfalls and riding a scooter or motorbike. It is also the ideal place to recuperate, relax, and watch a magical sunset. I only spent 5 days on this intriguing island but it is easy to see why it is known as “the island of the gods.” It is a magical place with ancient petroglyphs and cold spring water pools, both travellers and locals seem to have a shared understanding of respect for each other and the land.
I left Ometepe ready for the next half of my Nicaraguan adventure, Playa El Tránsito and the Free Spirit Hostel. I’m unsure if I can describe how this place found such a special home in my heart, but I’ll try. Only an hour from León but down a dusty dirt road, El Tránsito is a tiny surf and fishing town that feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere. I arrived by taxi but quickly learnt it was easy and safe enough to hitchhike and grab a bus if you ever needed to escape to the city (not that you’ll ever really want to). The street nearby (although we often just used the beach) consisted of a few local restaurants, two coffee shops, a handful of small stores and lots of chickens, dogs and horses walking freely. I quickly got used to this slow, barefoot way of life.
I was lucky enough to be volunteering at the Free Spirit Hostel, where I organised events, managed their social media and did some photography for them. In exchange, I got accommodation, breakfast, dinner, and access to surfboards and yoga classes. I became a part of an ever-changing, incredible hostel family. Since I started travelling I try not to get too attached to a place, as the one downside to always being on the move are the goodbyes, just as one of the huge upsides are the hellos. It was almost impossible not to become hooked on this paradise and its people. I had the most incredible seven weeks surfing, practicing yoga, reading in the sun, eating good food, watching sunsets, singing karaoke, dancing on the bar, swimming under the full moon, and most importantly, creating lasting new friendships.
I am so thankful for my time in Nicaragua. Even though I only explored a small slice of this beautiful country, I feel enriched and inspired. I will miss everything about it, especially the people, the parties, the laughs, and the hammocks.
I attempted to capture the beauty and the magic of this country in my photos below, I hope they inspire you as they do me. ¡Diviértete!
By Victoria Briggs
