The West Highland Way: Solo Walking 100 Miles in the Scottish Wilderness
Blisters, rain, midges (Scottish hell flies), with what felt like trench foot was quite the experience walking 100 miles through the Scottish Highlands. Yet, the aches, pain, and discomfort were constantly silenced by the beautiful views of glens, lochs, and woodlands springing with wildlife. To give context, this August, I walked the West Highland Way, a 96-mile path (I added 4 extra miles to round up to 100) that combines goat paths, farm trails, old military roads, and more, flowing through some of the most stunning Scottish landscapes imaginable.
So, what brought me to walk this route? I walked the same path with my father for his retirement trip six years ago. Back then, I was living in Pennsylvania, on the east coast of the USA. Now, I live in the Netherlands, and being so close to Scotland, it is always a tease to see cheap tickets from Amsterdam to the land I consistently long to visit, the land of my ancestors, Scotland. I was also mentally and physically drained from my job as a teacher (as all teachers are in the summer). So, with no preparation and a week's notice, why not walk the West Highland Way and wild camp as a restart? Here's how it went.
Day 1: Milngavie to Balmaha, 21 Miles.
I started with high spirits. Having had a Full Scottish Breakfast and prepacked lunch, I dashed out with all my camera gear, backpack, and a compact tent with my sleeping bag. My gear felt heavy, but my feet felt light. The first scenes I saw were the rolling hills of the lowlands of Scotland scattered with fields of heather that covered almost everything. It did not feel bare as the fields were often scattered with farm animals such as cows and sheep. I remembered from 6 years ago that this was the most straightforward route (physically), so I made it my goal to go as far as Loch Lomond, which meant walking over 20 miles. With that in mind, I did not rush the walk. I took my time photographing animals, rivers, and the various sights on the way. I only stopped for lunch in a forest to eat my premade sandwich. The hardest part of the day was when I reached Conic Hill, which feels like a mountain. You ascend and descend it before reaching the final stop, Loch Lomond.
Day 2: Balmaha to Invernen, 22.5 Miles.
Day two started with typical cloudy weather. The route was the complete length of Loch Lomond. The path itself was an old wild goat's path that the famous outlaw and cattle thief Rob Roy used to escape government forces. The terrain was rough. It felt less like a walking path and more like a bouldering path that winded through miles of forest. That said, I had a good time, and to my surprise, I passed many fellow walkers. I then made it to Inversnaid Falls, where I had planned to camp but felt strong and, to my mistake, pushed on in hopes of finishing a further 9 miles that day to make it to Beinglas Campsite. I made it to the final destination but at a high cost. As soon as I left Inversnaid Falls, the sky poured nonstop, and being outside of the forests around the banks of Loch Lomond left me with no shelter from the rain (I was ill-prepared).
Day 3 and 4: Inverarnen to Bridge of Orchy, 18 Miles.
Day three started cold, wet, and miserable. Besides a beautiful sunrise on Loch Lomond, my shoes were soaked, and the walk that day felt sad, to say the least (the photos tell a prettier story). So, needing time to heal my feet and dry my clothes, I decided to stop in Tyndrum for a hotel stay for two nights. The following day, I walked to Bridge of Orchy and took a train back to Tyndrum to take care of my feet further and let my tent dry out. I learned a few things:
Have an oversized, more powerful poncho (I bought one in Tyndrum) to go over allyour gear.
Always keep your feet dry (invest in good shoes).
Scotland has a great train and bus network in the remotest parts of the Highlands.
Day 5: Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven, 21 Miles
Upon resting in a hotel that felt like a luxury to the wild camping that I had done, I bussed to the Bridge of Orchy (where I had previously stopped the day before) and sallied forth to Kinlochleven—the day started with the River Orchy rushing past an old historic bridge toward the stunning sights of the highlands. I stopped the most on this day simply to take photos and take in the awe-inspiring sights of the West Highlands. Glencoe was a stunning sight as I continued the walk. Then, I made it to The Devil's Staircase, a winding path whose name came from workers in the past who died trying to climb it after visiting the local pub. The walk did not feel bad as the weather was excellent, and it felt easier than Conic Hill on the first day. The feeling of walking through the glens and the stunning Scottish scenery showed how famous poets such as Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott could have written such poetry inspired by this region. The day ended where I wanted, in Kinlochleven, as I wild-camped and walked into town for some delicious, well-earned Chinese food.
Day 6: Kinlochleven to Fort William, 17.5 Miles
My last day felt long. It started with saying goodbye to Kinlochleven and ascending the mountains beside it. The views were much like those from the previous days, with stunning glens. My feet, however, were not well. I had what can best be described as trench feet, where my feet were constantly wet (from wet boots). To paint a better picture and excuse the graphic nature, much of the skin around my toes had rubbed off, making each step painful. So, what should have been my most accessible day felt like a never-ending step on nails. To make things worse, the rain had made the path feel like a small river, so it was nearly impossible to stay dry. I was so tempted to call it quits, but the notion of not finishing fueled me to complete the trail as the last views of Ben Nevis and Fort William came into view. In the end, I reached the final destination and treated myself to some McDonalds.
If you ever want to complete the West Highland Way, here are a few tips.
Bring a mask that keeps Midges away (it can be a simple mosquito net).
Keep your gear and shoes as dry as possible, which can simply mean bringing an oversized waterproof poncho.
Make sure to take a break when you need. I did so in the middle in Tyndrum (get a hotel to break up the wild camping).
Take your time. It is not a race, and you should enjoy the views.
If anything, I hope this blog inspires anyone to walk the West Highland Way and, if not, get out in nature and enjoy one of the best modes of transportation, your feet. And as always, explore responsibly.
By: Rainier Lee
