Keti Koti: Breaking the Chains in Amsterdam
Colorful clothing, calls and responses, and musical instruments blended with the sounds of Caribbean, African, and Dutch noise as hundreds parade down the historic streets of Amsterdam. Welcome to Keti Koti.
"Break the Chains"
What is Keti Koti, one may ask? Having moved to the Netherlands, I did not know about it until this year when I had a conversation with one of my co-workers who was also an anthropologist before becoming a teacher. We discussed Dutch Colonial History, having family history in it, which led us to this topic. Keti Koti means "Break the Chains" in the language of Sranantongo, the second official language of Suriname. Keti Koti is celebrated on July 1, marking Emancipation Day and the end of slavery in the Dutch West Indies (Suriname, Dutch Antilles, etc.). Though slavery was abolished in 1863, the former slaves were required to work on plantations for ten years, which makes 1873 the more accurate day of emancipation.
"Bigi Spirki"
To commemorate these events, each day on July 1, descendants of those enslaved people and many from the Antilles and Suriname congregate together during the big parade called the "Bigi Spirki" (Big Mirror). Mirroring what happens in Suriname and the Antilles, members march throughout the city (or village) with traditional music and chants, celebrating the end of slavery and making political statements about the historical injustice toward people of color from the global Dutch Empire. The sights were impressive as hundreds of individuals marched and sang as one community, contrasting the Dutch buildings built in the past on the revenue of enslaved people and the spice trade.
At the end of Bigi Spirki, many gathered in large circles, holding hands and singing religious songs of freedom that reminded me of the 'black spirituals' I heard growing up in the American South and images reminding me of the Garifuna on the East Coast of Honduras. One could easily be moved to tears as descendants of enslaved people sang songs of freedom, liberty, and justice.
Colonial Heritage of the Netherlands
The cultural experience of Keti Koti was both educational and reflective for me. The fruits of European colonialism were not only the spices we use daily but also the extraction and globalization of people from around the world. That exchange lives on to this day. Seeing other Colonial Dutchies (my grandparents come from the East Indies) celebrate their culture, history, and self-expression was a marvel. In time, I hope that stories like these will be shown more fully because the offspring of those times live to this day.
Foods, traditions, and celebrations are a great way to remind us of the lasting impact of Dutch colonialism. For me, the most excellent reminder of these times lies not in the memorials but rather in the trees. Look up whenever you find yourself in Amsterdam's parks, specifically those in the eastern part of the city. You will discover Parakeets who made their home in the city. Like people who moved to the Netherlands in the offset of colonialism, the Parakeets are a reminder that regardless of our history or appearance, we are all part of the ecosystem of the Netherlands. With that, I wish you all a Happy Keti Koti.
If you ever find yourself in the Netherlands on July 1, join the parades across the country as we celebrate the ending of injustice and look to the future for reconciliation. And, as always, explore responsibly.
By: Rainier Lee
