Semana Santa in Spain: A Cultural Experience Like No Other
Packed streets filled with onlookers and the smell of incense. Hooded figures passing through the streets with music and platforms depicting Jesus and Mother Mary, held by over 30 men. These are the typical sights for Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Sevilla, Spain. What brought me to such a place? Well, my curiosity. When I lived in Honduras, I saw some of the most awe-inspiring images from Semana Santa in Comayagua, a day’s drive from San Pedro Sula, where I worked some years ago. Upon moving to the Netherlands, I was intrigued to one day witness the Semana Santa in its place of origin, Spain. So here we are today. For context, my experience focuses on Sevilla, though many other big and small Spanish cities also celebrate.
After completing a work trip to Berlin and missing my first flight to Spain, I finally arrived, disappointed to miss Good Friday. However, during the two days (Saturday and Sunday) I spent in Sevilla, I was not disappointed by what I saw. For some context, Holy Week, or the week leading up to Easter, is celebrated worldwide with various traditions and rituals, depending on the country. In Spain and many parts of Latin America, hooded figures walk the streets in correlation with figures holding platforms highly decorated with the life of Jesus. What you see is a tradition that is hundreds of years old. The hooded figures wear capirote and show different colors representing local brotherhoods, which are Catholic groups associated with a long line of tradition and practice dating back to the Inquisition.
For those who grew up in North America, these hooded figures are often mistaken by Americans as the KKK. Plainly said, they have zero affiliation with the KKK. Instead, the KKK copied their attire as a mockery of Catholics. Regardless of growing up in the American South, I was neither scared nor shocked by their appearances. Instead, I was amazed.
In Seville, it was easy to find these processions, though they were not always accessible. They typically started at a Church on the outskirts of town as they marched through the tightly packed streets of people to the Cathedral of Seville. As a tip, I suggest seeing them at the beginning of their march, as toward the end, streets were often too packed to get a glimpse unless you buy a ticket in advance for a viewing section… which I did not. With all the walking, I saw what felt like a week’s worth of these processions in two days.
On that tightly packed weekend, I had the privilege of witnessing the stunning religious views in Seville. Moreover, the city has a lot of other cultures and history. You can watch flamenco dancing, eat various local foods (pastries, of course), and walk around a city that feels alive. My stay was also in the Judeo Quarters, a UNESCO sight where Jews once lived. Around the neighborhood were indications of old Synagogues that, after the Spanish Inquisition of the 15th Century, were converted to churches, a sad reminder of Europe’s dark history with the Jewish people.
If you ever want to see Semana Santa in Spain, I highly recommend visiting Seville. Make sure you don’t miss your flight (like me) to see Good Friday, where Women dress in traditional black garments, and continue your trip through Easter. You will see stunning views in a historical city filled with culture and awe. If you aren’t the city type or don’t want to see only religious gatherings, don’t worry. As a surprise, Seville has wonderful nature parks packed with different kinds of birds. The most common are Parakeets, which, although beautiful, are pests in Spain and many parts of the Mediterranean as they undermine the sensitive ecosystem.
So, when you visit Spain, go to Seville, especially around Semana Santa. You will find wonderful culture, a nice sprinkle of nature, and some of the best travel in Europe. I wish you a happy Semana Santa, and as always, explore responsibly and respectfully.
By: Rainier Lee
